Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
